Backpacking the Boulder Mail Trail - Death Hollow - Upper Escalante Canyon Loop

Miles of slickrock. A heatwave. Towering sandstone walls and the kind of solitude that makes you forget what day it is.

This was my 3-night, 4 day adventure on one of the wildest loops in southern Utah: My chosen route so I wouldn’t have to get a shuttle; Up the Boulder Mail Trail down into Death Hollow canyon and out through the Upper Escalante canyon. Starting and ending at the town of Escalante, Utah.

Day 1 - Boulder Mail Trail: Slickrock Miles to Mamie Creek Natural Bridge | Camp in Death Hollow Canyon

Looking out over the vast Grand Staircase-Escalante

I hit the trail in the morning, excited (and a little nervous) about what was ahead. The Boulder Mail Trail wastes no time delivering that remote desert energy—expansive slickrock, prehistoric-looking potholes, and wide-open silence. It’s easy to feel like you’re walking on another planet.

By late morning, the sun was already intense. I quickly realized that water management and pacing would be key to surviving the day. Around midday, I reached upper Mamie Creek. I dropped my pack and followed the dry creek bed for a 1.5-mile side trip to Mamie Creek Natural Bridge. After a short siesta in the shade of a cottonwood, I continued on.

‘This trail was once a vital communications route between the towns of Boulder and Escalante. Even now, you can spot remnants of an old telegraph line strung between trees and poles, a single galvanized wire placed by the U.S. Forest Service in 1910. Amazingly, it remained in use until 1955.’

- Utah’s Incredible Backcountry trails, David Day

Ten miles in, I arrived at the overlook into Death Hollow Canyon—and then made the steep descent. What a name, and what a place. Far prettier than it sounds: towering sandstone walls, lush greenery, and cold, flowing water—the kind you daydream about while crossing hot slickrock for hours.

Miles: ~12
Water: None until Death Hollow Canyon
Camp: Just past the descent into Death Hollow. I followed the BMT upstream for about 2 miles and found a grove of red pines with flat tent spots. Took a swim, set up camp by the creek, and fell asleep to the sound of rushing water.

Day 2 - Death Hollow Canyon | Camp at Swimming Hole

The next 10 miles through Death Hollow are arguably the most exciting part of this loop. The hiker-made path weaves in and out of the creek, dodging boulders, brush, and poison ivy as it searches for the path of least resistance. Expect a mix of scrambling, route-finding, and frequent crossings and river walking.

While a few deep pools exist, most can be bypassed with a little effort. Under normal conditions, you shouldn’t have to wade through anything deeper than knee height. Still, it’s smart to pack with water travel in mind—things change quickly out here.

I made it about halfway down the canyon before calling it a day. Just past the mouth of Mamie Creek, I came across a deep pool with a small waterfall and a flat, shaded spot nearby—too good to pass up. I set up camp and took a cold plunge in the creek. A perfect end to a short but unforgettable day.

Miles: ~5
Water: Filtered straight from the creek
Camp: Just downstream of Mamie Creek’s confluence, at a swimming hole with a small waterfall and shaded tent spots

Day 3: Death Hollow Narrows to the Escalante River confluence

Towering canyon walls closed in as I made my way deeper into the heart of Death Hollow. The narrows twisted and turned like a stone labyrinth, revealing one stunning view after another. Crystal-clear pools stretched across the canyon floor, some waist-deep and icy cold, demanding full wades that got some of my gear wet but brought a huge grin to my face.

Lush cottonwoods arched overhead, their green leaves shimmering against the sandstone. The contrast between water, vegetation, and red rock felt almost surreal-like walking through a hidden oasis. Every bend revealed something new: cascading mini-waterfalls, mossy alcoves, and hanging gardens clinging impossibly to canyon walls.

The route was slow-going but magical, a true highlight of the loop. As I neared the confluence with the Escalante River, the canyon opened up just enough to let in the afternoon sun, casting golden light on everything around. I set up camp at the confluence, surrounded by stillness, water, and towering sandstone. A perfect end to the most scenic day of the trip.

Miles: ~5
Water: Filtered straight from the creek
Camp: At the confluence with the Escalante River, many camp spots available.

Day 4: Escalante River Confluence to Escalante Town Trailhead

After a slow, peaceful morning sipping coffee by the (mostly dry) Escalante River - which at this point was more a collection of shallow puddles than a flowing stream - I packed up, for the final push out (make sure to fill up on water at Death Hollow).

- Ancient Marks Along the Way

Tucked deep within the canyon walls, came across this incredible pictograph panel - a quiet reminder of the people who lived here long before us. Out of respect for its cultural significance and preservation, I won’t share the exact location. Please remember: these sites are sacred to many Native communities and deserve our care and protection. Look, don’t touch - and always leave them exactly as you found them.

Climbing out of the wash and onto the final stretch toward Escalante felt surreal - leaving behind days of solitude and wild beauty. I ended dirty and tired, but completely content, closing out an unforgettable adventure through one of southern Utah’s most remarkable backcountry routes.

Trip Quick Facts

Trailhead Start/End: Boulder Mail Trail at Escalante
Difficulty: Upper Intermediate - not beginner friendly, but a rewarding challenge if you’ve done multi-day desert treks.
Total Miles: ~30
Duration: 4 days / 3 nights
Water: Scarce on BMT, abundant in Death Hollow
Permits: Free but required and available at the TH or Escalante Visitor Center
Navigation: Moderate (some cairns on BMT) and following stream in canyons. I used the OnXBackcountry GPS app

Gear Notes

Water shoes or sandals (I wore my trail runners but brought sandals to change into at camp)
Dry bags or Ziploc’s for electronics
Sun shirt and hat (little to no shade on Days 1 & 4)
Long pants for the poison ivy in Death Hollow
Insect repellent for the Escalante River section
Trekking poles saved me many times on the slick crossings and river walking

Useful Links:

BLM - Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

Trip Overview

Death Hollow lived up to the hype. It’s wild, remote, and filled with more magic than miles. This loop isn’t easy, but it’s unforgettable. If you’re looking for a southern Utah route that combines old-school backpacking vibes with hidden gems and serious solitude, this is it.

Until next time… Keep on trekkin’

- Ty

Death Hollow Loop: 4 days of Solitude, Swim Holes & Sandstone